Derek Lam- 1967- Present

"It (Derek Lam) really touches on a femininity that is grown up and very self-aware.  It is competent, not an ingenue, intelligent but not overly intellectual, more emotional.  My collections have a modern point-of-view, but always look to the past" Derek Lam- Fashion Week Daily.


BIOGRAPHY


Derek Lam was born into fashion in 1967 in San Francisco, California.  His parents ran a successful business importing fashions from Asia and his grandparents owned a factory that specialized in bridal and wedding gowns.  One can assume that the old saying "The apple does not fall far from the tree" is very accurate in Derek Lam's case.  Whenever Lam discusses his childhood memories, he refers to the hours spent with his parents and their seamstresses, adoring the fashions.  His childhood filled with fashion led Derek to persue a degree in in the fashion industry and he attended the well known school of Parson's in New York City in 1990.  The 1990's were filled with great success in Lam's early career.  Lam worked as an assistant designer to famous icon, Michael Kors.  Michael Kors brought Lam many opportunities, one of which was the chance to move to Hong Kong, which Lam had no hisatation to do.  After Hong Kong, Lam returned to New York City and was named Vice President of Design to the Michael Kors brand.  With the influence and knowledge obtained by Lam, he ultimately decided to split ways to pursue his own fashion label which he launched in the Fall of 2003 at New York Fashion Week.  Fashion critics often call Lam, "An Overnight Success", which he was in very many ways.  Lam's pretty girl fabrics, plunging necklines, and clean silhouettes took the fashion world by storm.  It was in 2005 when Derek Lam won a CFDA award for new desingers and added another CFDA award in 2007 for best accessory designer of the year.  Adding to Lam's empire he has now expanded into shoes, jewelry, and even eyewear quickly building a lifestyle brand.  On top of his own responsibilities for his design firm, Lam also is the Creative Director for Tod's ready-to-wear and accessories collections.  Only being on the fashion stage for a little over 20 years, Lam really has made a huge impact and will continue to do so.


EARLY INFLUENCES

Based on the Biography Section it is clear that Derek Lam's childhood in general was a major influence on his career.  Being introduced into the world of fashion from both his parents and his grandparents had a lasting impact on Lam and his vision.  Lam was able to be surrounded by the fashion industry at such an early age that this shaped who he was as an individual so much that he ultimately decided to persue a career in the fashion industry just as his past families generations.  Also adding to his early inluences includes his travels at such an early age including, living in New York City to attend design school and traveling to Hong Kong to work for Michael Kors where he mastered his craft. 


DESIGNS

F/W RTW 08/09---Matharu pg. 233

 F/W RTW 08/09---Matharu pg. 235

F/W RTW 09/10---Matharu pg. 236

F/W RTW 09/10---Matharu pg. 238

F/W RTW 10/11---Matharu pg. 240

CRITICAL ANALYSIS

Derek Lam has been producing designs in an interesting time.  During the 1990's the zeitgeist was telling all of the designers to produce clothing for the "soccer mom" who lived a rather hectic lifestyle trying to balance family and a career.  Has we progress into the 21st Century, the design aesthetic changed to providing women with clothing that showed off her body and curves.  The spirit of the times was for women to be sexy and attractive as new designers imerged onto the scene to produce clothing for the modern women who wanted to show the world just how sexy she really is.  Derek Lam's first collection provided the perfect balance between sexyness and elegance as he designed plunging necklines and classic silhouettes to flater the woman's body.  And this is how Derek Lam has been designing according to the spirit of the times by understanding what is happening around him and putting it on the runway with his own vision, making a trend swing into full effect.  This is why Derek Lam is a fashion icon because he has been able to have such a major impact in the world of fashion in such a short amount of time. 

Derek Lam seeks to bring a new look to classic American sportswear.  Through his experience and mentorship of working with Michael Kors, Lam has set out on a journey to redefine sportswear in the sense of it being ecletically casual and classically chic.  Just as designers before him such as Claire McCardell and Geoffrey Beene, he has kept a healthy balance between sportswear and ready-to-wear by staying true to the realistic lifestyles of the consumer yet, providing that elegance so longed for in his designs.  I found it rather interesing to watch a video where Derek Lam discusses who has influenced him in the fashion world.  Some of the names he dropped would include the most iconic women in fashion such as, Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli and Vionnet.  If Derek Lam would have to pick any of the three to collaborate with he would choose Schiaparelli and makes a joke of how Chanel would chew him up and spit him out for his choice. 

Critical Analysis--- (Matharu-What is Fashion Design?)




ANALYSIS OF FUTURE TRENDS

Women’s Wear Daily expresses that Derek Lam’s 2012 RTW Collection was impressive and sellable because it appeared to be ready for the sales floor.  Derek Lam’s designs can be found at luxury retailers such as Barney’s and Bergdorf Goodman.  Fortunately for Lam, his designs have always been designed based on what was “in” at the right time and has found success through capitalizing on his work.  In the same article from Women’s Wear Daily, they also said this about his new collection, “At the core were chic, minimalist separates warmed up with American classics, such as a nice navy peacoat and cable knits, all of which were boosted by exceptional details and fabrics. Leather was a mainstay, whether on fitted baseball jackets with knit trims and streamlined shells, or as an accent, as in the black lambskin shoulders on a long ivory silk gown. It gave the collection a luxurious edge without turning hard. In fact, some of the most remarkable pieces featured twists on dainty motifs, such as a gorgeous black leather pencil skirt done with pink floral embroidery, and a T-shirt in graphic black-and-white paisley jacquard that looked like lace” (Women’s Wear Daily).  It is in my personal opinion that Derek Lam is not exactly the "original" designer of classic American's sportswear such as Claire McCardell.  However, what Lam is doing with American classics such as the peacoats and cable knits is redefining these classic iconic staples in a woman's warddrope and making them even more elegant and sophisticated.  This is the same principle on which Michael Kors aesthetic has been founded---taking something that appears to be as simple as a sweater and making it extroadinary.  This principle has been carried over into Lam's work and he continues to run with the ideas and pushes his own boundaries when it comes to great American design.  It is also in my opinion that Derek Lam has not been as exploratory as he could be with his designs in order to create a signature silhouette different from any other designer prior to his time.  The good news for Lam is that he is currently a major fashion designer who has the time to perfect his work.  I mean, obvisously the man is doing something right because his business continues to boom, becoming more and more popular with the every day consumer.  It would be my guess that Derek Lam will soon collaborate with a lower end retailer to create excitement that would be very positive for his overall image.  Derek Lam is an extraodinary business man, who has found success in the 21st Century by already collaborating with Ebay to produce ready-to-wear collections that are sold prodominantly through Ebay.com.  This has inspired other designers to follow suit, such as American Apparel who also sells clothing through Ebay.  Please do not mistake the fact that I love Derek Lam and I think his designs are innovative and unique yet, I cannot wait to see what he has in stores for us to come.  

  Women's Wear Daily- Derek Lam Fall RTW 2012

Women's Wear Daily- Derek Lam Fall RTW 2012

Women's Wear Daily- Derek Lam Fall RTW 2012

DEREK LAM LADIES AND GENTLEMEN 

Works Cited

Collection, Derek Lam- 2012 FW RTW. Women's Wear Daily. 12 February 2012. 2012 <http://www.wwd.com.subscriptions.fidm.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2012/review/derek-lam>.
Infomat Fashion. n.d. 2012 <http://www.infomat.com/whoswho/dereklam.html>.
Lam, Derek. New York Magazine. n.d. 2012 <http://nymag.com/fashion/fashionshows/designers/bios/dereklam/>.
—. Vogue Australia. n.d. 2012 <http://www.vogue.com.au/fashion/designers/derek+lam,247>.
Matharu, Gurmit. What is Fashion Design? UK: A RotoVision Book- RotoVision SA, n.d.
Vogue Pedia. n.d. 2012 <http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Derek_Lam>.










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